Gloucester artists’ visit Zambia

by Gilly Hill, David and Jane Finch, Cathy and John Steed

The idea of a GCA group visit to Zambia to meet artists was first mooted around Christmas 2025 by Gilly Hill. Gilly was born in Zambia and had lived there for much of her childhood and adult life. 

In recent years Gilly saw a vibrant art scene emerging in Zambia and was keen to introduce visitors from the UK to artists and art businesses at the top of their game in this corner of Africa. 

John, Cathy, David and Jane signed up for the adventure and flights and accommodation were booked for September 2026. There followed a few nail-biting months as we waited to see how events in the Middle East would impact on our travel plans and whether the outbreak of Ebola in the neighbouring Republic of Congo would be contained. 

At last, on the 8 September our party arrived in Lusaka (via a transfer in Dubai). Gilly had arrived a few days earlier to make sure all the arrangements were in place. Our itinerary: three days in Lusaka visiting artists in their studios and art related places then on to Livingstone to see the magnificent Victoria Falls, local wildlife and visit the Wayi Wayi art studios.

Day 1

Arrive in Lusaka then to Wild Dogs Camp for rest and beer!

Day 2

Francios d’Elbee, lunch at 37D Gallery and stay at Pioneer Camp for 3 nights

Francios d’Elbe is a French photographer who has exhibited internationally and has lived in Zambia for many years. When he is not working on private portraits, Francois’ photography focuses on some of the ancestral and cultural values of Africa (Gule Wamkulu, Chokwe, Zambian traditional Ceremonies…), and on its fragile and unique wildlife heritage.

In his current work Francois is using his photographs to create more abstract imaginary digital collages. 

37D Gallery is a beautiful modern space that provides a dynamic and sustainable showcase for both emerging and established artists to exhibit and sell selected art works to an ever-growing local and international market.

Day 3

Visit to Stary Mwaba studio, lunch and Twice Art Gallery

Stary Mwaba was born in Zambia in 1976 and grew up in the Copperbelt Province in Kitwe. His paintings are characterized by figures rendered meticulously with intensely expressive faces surrounded with more expressionist figures and backgrounds, combining realism with a freer, more abstract style. 

Stary told us how he started drawing in his late teens after experiencing a lot of hardship as the eldest child of a single mother. He says he was always drawn to paintings and other imagery he saw as a child and taught himself to draw and paint. When he moved to the city and mixed with artists he understood what it meant to have an artistic practice. His innate talent was spotted and he was invited to exhibit his work. This faith in him set his path.

Stary’s  work is often socially engaged and site-specific. Going out and talking to people informs what happens in his studio. Stary explained how he begins each work by painting an abstract background. Out of the abstraction he would see figures emerging so he didn’t know what he would paint until this moment.

Stary showed us around the new studio he is building in his garden. It is spacious and light with room for him to host an artist in residence.

After lunch Gilly took us to meet Callen Twice of The Twice Art Gallery that represents Zambian artists. Callen has an arrangement with a hotel and artworks are displayed on the walls throughout the building. After showing us the work we sat down with Callen to talk about the possibility of making links between GCA and Twice in our two, very different, locations. This is a conversation to be continued… 

Then back to Pioneer Camp. 

Day 4

Visit to artist Astrid Krag-Olsen and her block printing workshop, lunch at Jackal and Hide then to see the gallery of Leslie Reynolds

Like Gilly Astrid was born in Zambia and after a career abroad has returned to Lusaka to live. Astrid is a designer and artist who founded the Africa Block Project during the Covid 19 pandemic in 2020. The project aims to empower women by equipping them with the skills and knowledge to become artisans in the traditional craft of Indian block printing. The initiative focuses on improving livelihoods, creating employment and producing high-quality textiles and home accessories for both a local market and for export.

We watched as the small team prepared fabrics for hand printing using Indian wooden blocks that Astrid has made from her designs.

After the workshop visit Astrid took us across the garden to her house and studio. Astrid’s  multi-layered mixed media works explore social issues, personal memory, and the human condition. After a career in the film industry Astrid has returned to her Zambian roots.

“Zambia has always been my inspiration, it never fails to offer me sensory fuel, from visual texture to the smell of dust that waits for the rain, it somehow gets under your skin.”

After an enjoyable lunch we went on to visit Leslie Reynolds in his gallery nearby. Leslie is an artist, ecologist and birding guide. He works on film shoots and wildlife surveys, and owns the Leslie Reynolds Art Gallery.

Day 5

Drive to Livingstone  - stay at Maramba River Lodge

The long drive to Livingstone (about 9 hours) took us through the bush and through occasional villages and small towns. The single carriageway road is the only route from the Copper Belt in the north to South Africa so huge trucks transporting machinery and supplies to and from the mines made up most of the traffic. Overtaking these trucks, avoiding herds of cows and goats crossing the highway, and going slowly through settlements and police checks made for a long and tiring journey.

We arrived at Maramba River Lodge, a camp set among trees on the banks of a tributary of the great Zambesi River. Elephants and even hippos were known to wander through the camp and crocodiles basked on the banks of the river right opposite the dining terrace.

On our first night, after hearing strange noises outside our safari tent, an elephant was spotted strolling through the camp!

Day 6

Visit Victoria Falls and lunch at Livingstone Hotel, dinner at Waterfront hotel

Day 7 

Visit to Lawrence and Agnes Buya Yombwe at Wayi Wayi art gallery and studio, lunch at Maramba river lodge, boat trip up the Zambezi to see sunset and birdlife. Dinner at Maramba River lodge.

Agnes Buya Yombwe is a mixed media artist, arts educator, author and mentor. Her artistic practice explores indigenous knowledge systems and especially the Mbusa of Zambia's Bemba people.  She also examines other societies and their response to environmental and socio-political issues facing contemporary society. Through art, symbolism and text, she explores and challenges responses to traditional and changing cultural norms. Her intent is to provoke questions, and to encourage people to engage with stereotypes and norms.

Her work focuses on highlighting taboo issues such as gender-based violence and myths around menstruation in the African context.

Lawrence Yombwe is considered a master of Zambian painting. Lawrence and his wife  Agnes founded Wayi Wayi Art Studio & Gallery in Livingstone in 2004. Lawrence is an art educator and mentor who has had a significant impact on Zambia’s younger art scene. Lawrence and Agnes demonstrated how they use art and performance to educate young people, particularly young men on issues around marriage and the treatment of women.  

A few days after our visit Wayi Wayi were visited by royalty (Sophie, the Duchess of Edinburgh). 

On our last evening in Livingstone we opted for a two hour boat trip along the Zambesi to spot birds and wildlife on the river bank and see the sun set across the water. The guide for our personalised tour knew all the best places to find bee-eaters, Maribou storks, crocodiles and young baboons using termite mounds as a playground. What initially looked like smooth dark boulders in the river turned out to be groups of resting hippos - so we steered well clear. 

Day 8

Drive to Lusaka, Wild Dogs Camp for the night

Another long day of driving, back to Lusaka. There were few truck stops for the long distance drivers but plenty of roadside sellers to provide food and refreshment and perhaps some subjects for our future artworks.. 

Day 9

Rest day at Wild Dogs camp and evening flight home.

We spent our final day at Wild Dogs camp relaxing by the pool and searching for weaver bird nests in the clumps of bamboo around the camp. We vowed to make work on our return home inspired by our experiences in Zambia. 

Reflections

David

So what did we learn? It was such a rich, well organised and enlightening visit. For me, it was a great opportunity to see and speak to artists working in different media, materials and cultures. The visit gave me fresh ideas for my own work which is why I was keen to visit. I loved the painting techniques and materials used. The visit also brought new birds and as I am a keen birdwatcher I wanted to incorporate this into my new work. So….I am renewed and enthusiastic about my painting again. Thank you Gilly.

Jane

Thank you Gilly for organising such a wonderful trip. We saw some truly fabulous art and creativity.  From my perspective (artistically) the trip has inspired me to create!.  Astrid’s fabulous hand embroidery work is phenomenal.  I have created my own handstitched work, guided by what I saw at her workshop.  An amazing adventure with lovely friends.

Cathy

Thank you Gilly for this opportunity to visit Zambia (a country I would never have visited otherwise) with you to guide us. Gilly lined up an excellent programme of visits to artists, stylish galleries and delightful cafes. We visited the artists in their studios where we could see finished work and discuss their work in progress. Everyone we met from the artists to the staff in our accommodation were a delight and could not have been more welcoming. 

Like Jane I was particularly drawn to Astrid’s work. Her art practice is varied and joyful - there was nothing she could not turn her hand to.  Where I can see the sights of Zambia influencing my work with glass is in the colourful fabrics, roadside stalls and lines of washing.   

John

Art is a universal language and it was wonderful to be inspired by these Zambian artists - their energy and their enthusiasm, their embrace of experimentation and their expression. 

We are rooted in Gloucester, a melting pot of cultures. Our strength may lie in building bonds both here in the city and with artistic communities overseas. 

And finally some words from Gilly who inspired and organised our trip so well

One of the main reasons that I invited GCA art members to visit Zambia and meet artists there is because for many years I had been peripherally involved in the Zambian art scene. A very good friend of mine had an art gallery/café and it was through that venue that I not only started my own art collection but got to know the Artists themselves and soon became very good friends with them.

I have always admired both the extraordinary expression, dedication and the professional quality of Zambian artists in an environment where they are all self taught and art materials difficult as well as expensive to access.

Zambian artists like ourselves, are driven to artistic expression but in Zambia they start without any of the supports either financially or environmentally to display or indeed create in studios unless they are fortunate enough to find sponsors. Once they find these supports, they are often found very quickly by international galleries and their subsequent trajectory can be stellar! -as with 2 of the artists I introduced to the group.

So when I joined GCA, from the very start, I wanted to expose Zambian art to British artists, and I was thrilled when John, David, Cathy and Jane joined my trip to see what I had been talking about. My Zambian artist friends welcomed us all so enthusiastically and I for one, left again in admiration and truly inspired by their extraordinary talent.

END